September is here, which means Second Hand September—a campaign encouraging us to buy nothing new for 30 days. It’s the perfect opportunity to look at the state of fast fashion in 2025.
Has anything actually changed in the last two years? Who has paid the highest price for this industry’s practices? And why are small, independent designers at the center of its most controversial scandals? Let’s dig in.
What Has Changed
1. Awareness and Consumer Shifts
The dark side of fast fashion is no longer a secret. Documentaries, viral TikToks, and campaigns have pulled back the curtain, showing how the industry exploits both people and the planet. Younger generations in particular are turning to resale and rental platforms like Depop, ThredUp, and Poshmark. The resale market is now growing 11 times faster than traditional retail, and by 2030, it’s expected to be twice the size of fast fashion.
2. Legal & Political Pushback
Governments are finally stepping in. France recently proposed laws that would make it illegal for influencers to promote ultra-fast fashion and could introduce eco-taxes of €5–10 per item by 2030. This is one of the boldest regulatory moves to date, signaling that the tide may be turning.
And in the U.S., 2025 has brought a major shakeup. The government closed a long-standing loophole known as the de minimis exemption, which had allowed low-value shipments—often from platforms like Temu and SHEIN—to enter duty-free if valued under $800. With that door shut, most parcels are now subject to steep tariffs and flat fees, raising the cost of ultra-cheap imports and slowing the flood of fast fashion deliveries. Prices for many of the lowest-cost items are expected to rise, shifting the advantage back toward secondhand, ethical, and locally made apparel.
For consumers, this means higher upfront prices on fast fashion hauls, but also a clearer path toward more sustainable choices. Instead of grabbing ten $5 tops that won’t last, shoppers may find greater value in thrifting, swapping, or investing in pieces designed to stand the test of time. In that sense, the tariff shift aligns perfectly with the spirit of Second Hand September: less throwaway fashion, more thoughtful wardrobes.
3. Greenwashing Under Fire
Brands like H&M and Zara have faced lawsuits and regulatory scrutiny for “sustainable collections” that don’t hold up under investigation. What once passed as a marketing gimmick is now being closely watched.
What Hasn’t Changed
1. Overproduction & Waste
The fashion industry still produces over 100 billion garments each year, with 92 million tons of textiles dumped into landfills. Less than 1% of discarded clothing is recycled into new garments. The cycle of overproduction → overconsumption → waste remains unbroken.
2. Exploitation of Labor
Behind every $7 dress is a garment worker, often in the Global South, working long hours for poverty wages. Despite global attention, conditions remain largely the same—and in some regions, they’ve worsened as inflation rises.
3. Environmental Cost
A single cotton T-shirt consumes about 2,700 liters of water—enough to hydrate one person for nearly three years. Polyester production, meanwhile, is surging, locking in reliance on fossil fuels. SHEIN alone emits as much carbon annually as 180 coal-fired power plants...mind-blowing huh?
Who Has Been Affected the Most
-
Garment Workers: Exploited with little improvement in wages or safety.
-
Communities in the Global South: Countries like Ghana and Chile are overwhelmed by mountains of clothing waste shipped from the West.
-
Independent Designers: Some of the worst victims of fast fashion’s ruthless business model are the very people trying to innovate sustainably.
Stories of Small Designers Fighting Back
-
Marie Dewet (MaisonCléo): Her handmade blouses were blatantly copied by SHEIN, only removed after public backlash.
-
Tracy Garcia (Transformations by Tracy): A silk-lace camisole she sold for $95 was replicated by SHEIN and sold for under $7.
-
Amber Marell Boyers (Baiia Swimwear): Her recycled-fabric swimsuits were copied in cheap polyester versions, undermining her brand’s integrity.
-
Krista Perry, Larissa Martinez & Jay Baron: These artists filed a federal lawsuit against SHEIN in 2023, accusing the company of a systematic pattern of copyright theft.
-
Marcelo Gaia (Mirror Palais): In 2025, he revealed that his $500–$1,500 designs were knocked off and sold as $20 dupes on SHEIN and OhPolly, amplified by influencers promoting “cheap alternatives.”
For small designers, each theft is more than lost sales—it’s stolen creativity, reputation, and years of work.
The Biggest Culprits
The names aren’t new, but their power has grown:
-
SHEIN: The global poster child of ultra-fast fashion, producing thousands of new styles daily, many copied directly from small brands. Facing multiple lawsuits, yet still growing.
-
Zara & H&M: Masters of “green” marketing while still driving overproduction.
-
Boohoo, PrettyLittleThing & Fashion Nova: Online giants built on influencer culture, micro-trends, and copying independent creators.
Why Second Hand September Matters
When you choose second hand, you’re voting with your wallet. You’re saying no to exploitation, no to idea theft, and no to a disposable culture.
Buying thrifted, swapping clothes, or supporting small ethical brands isn’t just about what you wear—it’s about shaping the industry’s future.
✅ Takeaway:
Fast fashion hasn’t slowed down. But awareness is rising, designers are speaking out, and laws are catching up. Change won’t come from one person or one month—but movements like Second Hand September remind us that progress starts with individual choices that add up.
This September, resist the haul. Support independent creativity. And choose fashion that’s made to last.
